Not every fabric takes embroidery the same way. Before machine settings, you need to know whether the material accepts stitching — and with which backing.
The decision table
| Fabric | Difficulty | Recommended backing | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Heavy cotton (polo, shirt) | Easy | Light tearaway | Nothing particular |
| Denim, canvas | Easy | Tearaway | Stronger needle, standard density |
| Fine jersey (t-shirt) | Medium | Fusible + topping | Distortion, stitches sinking |
| Fleece, sweatshirt | Medium | Fusible + topping | Pile drowning the stitches |
| Windbreaker, nylon | Hard | Water-soluble | Visible needle holes, heat |
| Padded jacket | Very hard | Backing + mandatory test | Bulk, filling shifting |
| Leather | Hard | Tearaway + sharp needle | Permanent marks |
| Silk, satin | Very hard | Fine water-soluble | Water marks, very low tension |
Three fabric families
Stable fabrics (cotton, denim, canvas)
The simplest. Standard density, light tearaway and a 75/11 needle are enough. The embroidery holds and the garment keeps its shape.
Stretch fabrics (jersey, knit, fleece)
The fabric moves during stitching and afterwards. You need:
- a fusible that prevents stretching,
- a topping when the surface is uneven,
- pull compensation of 0.2 to 0.3 mm,
- reduced speed.
Technical fabrics (nylon, padded, leather)
Every stitch leaves a permanent hole. On these materials there is no second chance:
- stitch a scrap before the piece,
- lower the density so the material is not weakened,
- avoid small text, which multiplies perforations.
What to turn down
- Thin unlined padded jacket: the filling shifts under the needle.
- Coated glossy fabric: holes stay visible.
- Very stretchy knit (legging type): distortion is unavoidable.
- A garment already washed twenty times: behaviour is no longer predictable.
A reasoned refusal beats a ruined piece.
Backing, in order
- Behind: tearaway (stable fabrics) or fusible (stretch).
- On top: water-soluble topping when the surface is looped or napped.
- Around: never leave backing on an area that will show after washing.
The wrong backing causes more defects than a badly tuned machine.
The rule that prevents 80% of problems
Test on a scrap of the same fabric, with the same backing. Two minutes of testing saves a garment and a rework.
In practice
The file must match the fabric, not just the logo. A design that works on cotton can gape on jersey. If you start from an existing logo, prepare the file at the right width, then check the stitch count — the best density indicator before you stitch.