Fabric rarely tears “by itself”. In almost every case four settings are involved, and they are fixed in a specific order: density first, then underlay, then tension, then backing.
1. Density is too high for the fabric
This is cause number one. An automatic fill is calibrated for heavy cotton. On fine jersey, knit or technical fabric, the same density perforates the material: too many needles in the same square centimetre, and the fibres give way.
What you see: holes along the outlines, fabric turning white, threads pulling the grain. What you do: increase stitch spacing from 0.40 mm to 0.45–0.50 mm, and reduce satin density by 10–15%.
2. Underlay is not doing its job
Underlay stabilises the fabric before the fill. Without it, stitches land on a surface that moves, and tension concentrates at the edges.
Three underlays exist, for three purposes:
- centre / edge run: holds the fabric, prevents shifting;
- light fill: adds loft and stops fabric rising between stitches;
- edge walk: gives crisp outlines.
What you see: a fill that “floats”, edges that fray, puckering around the border. What you do: add an edge-run underlay, then a fill underlay at 60–70% of final density.
3. Thread tension is wrong
Too much tension breaks the thread — or the fabric, when the thread is stronger than the weave. Too little gives loops and knots underneath.
The simple test: stitch a 3 cm square on a scrap. If the top thread pulls the fabric into dimples, tension is too high. If you see loops on the back, it is too low.
What you do: adjust the upper thread tension first, never the bobbin to compensate.
4. The fabric is not stabilised
Tear-away backing suits cotton. On stretch knit you need fusible or cut-away. On fleece, a heavy tear-away, sometimes with a water-soluble topping so stitches do not sink in.
What you see: the design distorts, the fabric ripples, outlines fail to meet. What you do: change the backing before touching file settings.
Diagnostic table
| Symptom | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Holes along outlines | Density too high | Spacing 0.45–0.50 mm |
| Frayed edges | No edge-run underlay | Add edge underlay |
| Floating fill | Insufficient underlay | Fill underlay at 65% |
| Dimples around the design | Top tension too high | Loosen the upper thread |
| Loops on the back | Tension too low | Tighten, check the bobbin |
| Fabric rippling | Wrong backing | Fusible or cut-away |
| Outlines that miss | No pull compensation | Enlarge shapes by 0.2–0.3 mm |
Pull compensation, the classic omission
When you stitch a filled shape, the fabric contracts around it. A 20 mm circle comes out at 19.4 mm if nothing compensates. On a logo, that shows as letters touching and outlines bleeding.
The fix is to draw the shape slightly larger than the target result — 0.2 to 0.3 mm depending on fabric. An automatic converter applies a generic value; on very stretchy fabric that is not enough.
The order of correction
- Change the backing if the fabric is thin or stretchy.
- Lower the density.
- Check the underlay.
- Set the tension.
- Add pull compensation.
- Re-stitch on a scrap, never directly on the final piece.
If the fabric still tears after those five steps, the file is no longer the problem: it is the needle (too large, blunt) or the machine speed.
When to stop trying
Some materials cannot take dense embroidery: voile, very fine microfibre, coated fabrics, linings. The answer there is not a setting but a change of technique — embroidery on a separate patch, transfer, or flock print.